The CAT and CHICKEN population here is VAST / ENORMOUS.
I must truthfully say, this place is terribly polluted. Rain / rivers wash fecal matter into the sea from mountains.
Feral cat feces infected with Toxoplasma gondii is a concern, not to mention those delightful chicken feces.
With all our abilites and technologies, I am amazed humans do not possess ability to destroy solid and liquid waste molecules.
Could this be the best reason ever for use of nuclear energy?
I think Hawai'i is a perfect showplace for the cleansing to REALLY begin on Earth.
Here is my suggestion for Earth's first true de-pollution endeavor:
The largest inland lake in Islands, Lake Wilson is polluted to discoloration.
The population/businesses that surround this particular body of H20 MUST be engaged, homeless or otherwise.
There are an estimated 12-15,000 homeless statewide.
The goal.....CLEAR tropical water....if you saw it, you'd say it's impossible...I refuse to believe that.
If alive today, James Cook would have named Hawai'i the "Chicken Sandwich Islands".
Cook was clubbed, stabbed, and ripped apart by High Chief Kalaimanokaho'owaha AND the natives.
When our government wanted his body for proper burial,
they handed them several pieces of his remains...welcome to Hawaii.
At a main intersection in Wahiawa:
Seven motorcycle policemen were hiding behind cars picking off people talking on their cell phones.
Tickets are $300....
SIMPLE STATISTICAL FACT: You are FOUR TIMES MORE LIKELY to have a collision when talking on phone while driving. Click this text for the cardinal RULE in driving safely.
Lesson ONE - Get used to the board:
Make sure you have the surfboard you're going to use with you at home or in the hotel room.
I recommend spending time with a surfboard before attempting to ride waves.
Hold it up in front of you and move it around in the air to get a feel for how it is weighted.
Remember...it is always easier to catch waves with a longer board....9-10 ft. or more, thick and floaty, is best at first.
Put it on the bed with fins hanging off the mattress, and lay on it.
As bouncy as the bed may feel, I assure you it is STABLE compared to being in water.
Another, possibly more realistic option is to tape a few stacked pillows
to the center bottom of the board and put on carpeted floor, clear of furniture, etc.
If the fin(s) are removable, take them out!...otherwise stay on the bed with the fins clear.
In prone position, shift yourself forward and backward to get centered....this will all become instinct.
NOW...practice the "snap to your feet" maneuver....feet landing shoulder width or so apart near center of board.
The better/quicker you are at snapping to your feet ...the quicker you'll be surfin'.
Lesson TWO - Wax, Paddling, Wave Watching, and Duck Diving:
OK....we're on the beach now.....make sure the deck is rough with wax...check the grip with your feet,
as you practice the snap to feet maneuver.
I'll assume all the leash related info is obvious to you.
INTO the WATER!
You can use wet sand to further rough up the surface.
Use a wax comb (or hair comb, if necessary) to rough it up even further.
NOTE: Suntan oil on the wax is NOT good!
Pick a safe area away from breaking waves.
Your first sensations will be your positioning on the board....level in water...nose just above surface.
NOW....paddle all over the place....stay away from surfers and the impact zone!
You will get worked just paddling, so pace yourself.
Accustom yourself to the rhythm of sets of waves...it's the always changing pulse of the sea.
As you paddle, you'll adjust your position on the board for the most efficient paddling motion.
Too far back and the nose pushes water....inefficient!
Feel your paddling muscles, and work them. Try not to tire yourself....breathe!
This is how you get around now...so take your time at first.
Lesson THREE - Catching Waves:
The MORE TIME YOU SPEND BEING PUSHED BY A WAVE....whether prone, on knees, whatever.... the better at it you'll get.
I recommend picking already broken SMALL waves in a safe area.....a knee high wall of white water is easier/more fun at first.
Just make sure the nose of the board is ABOVE water when you begin to paddle for a wave.
When a wave comes....paddle like a mad goon!
Be prepared to shift your weight forward, if necessary, when paddling for a wave.
The board will pearl (go under) many/several times until you get your positioning correct.
Just keep trying to catch & ride waves....stay on your stomach or knees, if necessary....feel this force of nature behind & beneath you.
Observe good surfers as they catch waves.....it will come to you.
A good sense of balance, and !TENACITY! certainly helps.
Catching unbroken waves is nothing but obvious instinct...you'll know what to do.
When you first gain control of a board on an unbroken wave....maybe it will dawn on you...maybe not......this is one of the world's great thrills.
Stay within your own athletic limits, swimming ability, AND wave size.....try not to get injured!
Surfing is a wonderful reason to see the world's great beaches.....a culture in itself....unlike ANY other.
These first sensations of the sport will stay with you a lifetime.